The basic techniques of growing show dahlias are the same for
most classifications. Good stock; good plants; good soil; plenty
of water and some ‘know-how’. Growing G.S.C. really
is little different, requiring these basic conditions. The problem
is the growing area, where different timing requirements are paramount
as in growing giant decoratives. There is only one flush of flower
and although side buds can be run on if the plant is running early
I do not believe that the resulting blooms are as good.
Exhibiting nine different varieties in the Vincent Parker Trophy
Class at London can be very frustrating, as I have discovered
to my cost! Eight only, good blooms, on the day immediately means
‘no entry’. The giant decorative growers have the opportunity
to at least enter the 12 and 9 bloom classes, with the obvious
opportunity to finally enter a Championship Class. Not so, the
G.S.C. grower - one bloom short and the National is over for another
year. Even at local Affiliated Society level, many classes call
for G.S.C. or L.S.C. blooms and undoubtedly a good entry of, say,
Salmon Keene, in my experience, usually has the edge because of
its classic formation. So, why grow G.S.C. varieties? A question
I have still to answer myself!
So let us begin the road to the National Show:
Item One — Stock
This must be the paramount requirement, because it does not matter
how well you have nurtured and grown them, poor stock will produce
poor blooms with little chance of winning. Selection of one’s
own stock is the best course and I firmly believe pot tubers are
an essential part of saving stock for the future. Most of my standard
varieties are potted into 4’-6” pots which are then
buried in a well drained position and are given as much treatment
as possible, including spraying and health inspection, during
the growing season. I only allow the crown bud to flower to check
all is correct - variety and health wise. A final potash feed
is given during the final growth period to ensure a firmer tuberPot
tubers also ensure a sensible back-up to field tubers, as I am
sure in the Scottish area you could be caught with a very severe
snap at any time and with ground tubers frozen in, pot tubers
can be easily lifted and stored.
Ground preparation begins after lifting the tubers with rough
digging left to over-winter, but too much use of a cultivator
can easily pan down the ground and cause many problems, including
drainage on heavy soils. I believe that PH testing of the soil
is very important. A figure of 6.5 is right for dahlias, as it
is for most plants. Any correction should take place to reach
this figure. Very low initial reading, say, 3.5-5.0 PH should
be applied in two or three applications to reach the required
figure of 6.5 PH. This figure is essential for the maximum effect
of any fertilizer and trace elements applied. The basic theory
of no manure to be applied with liming should be adhered to. Every
grower has his own, and site problems to overcome to produce a
good basic growing condition. I employ the fact that most plants
absorb all the nitrogen available and only the potash required.
The over use of high potash t.?ed can quickly cause a toxic build
up in the most basic requirement to produce good balanced plants
to soil.
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The varieties to grow:
1. Daleko Jupiter - bronze - Mid flowering period.
2. Pink Jupiter - pink. Mid flowering period.
3. Rose Jupiter - rose - Mid flowering period.
4. Evening Mail - yellow - Tall grower.
5. Inca Dambuster - yellow- Can have soft blooms.
6. Lloyd Houston - bronze - Early flowerer.
7. Jaldec Jerry - pink - Early flowerer.
8. Le Vonne Splinter - bronze - Late flowerer.
9. Debra Ann Craven - red - Mid period.
10. Rev. P. Holian - purple - Mid period.
11. Kenora Clyde - white - Late flowerer.
12. Bob Fitzjohn - bronze - Early flowerer.
13. Elmbrook Rebel - red - Late flowerer.
14. Frank Lovell - yellow - Mid period.
15. Respectable - bronze - Early flowerer.
Depending upon your area, planting out usually takes place, the
first week in June. This governs the cutting and potting times
of the plants. Again, this period, in my view, is critical, for
a plant checked by being pot bound and poor watering, will rarely
produce a good healthy plant with a quality flower. The later
flowering varieties require early cuttings and potting on - and
possibly stopping before planting out. One paramount rule is,
never allow a check in growth to take place at any time. Good
young plants placed into well prepared soil, should never receive
a check. Hopefully your plants should now produce first class
blooms which, of course, is the object of the exercise.
Covering. Another disadvantage with giants is that, in my view,
covering is essential in most seasons. These can be ‘home
made’ 15” cones, second hand umbrellas, frames covered
with plastic etc. etc. These can be a “Heath Robinson”
affairs to the highly sophisticated systems I have seen around
the country including overhead muslin and fans to attempt to control
heat and mist. . . . you pays your money and takes your choice
but refrain from telling the wife how much it costs. lads! I plant
out approximately 2’-6” apart and 3’-6” between
the rows. One single 4’ cane is used to tie the plant. Depending
on the condition of the plant some fertilizer -usually blood,
fish and bone is applied, two or three weeks before planting at
the rate of approximately 2 to 3 oz. per square yard to assist
an early start to plant growth.
Growing. Planting usually takes place, in my area, during the
first week in June. Some of the very late flowering varieties
have already been stopped in their final pots, the rest will be
stopped according to their flowering time, up to the third week
in June.
The ‘banker’ varieties, such as the Jupiters. Dambuster
etc. are grown in tens. and the other varieties in smaller quantities.
Some only produce good flowers, say, every three seasons, but
who is to know when this is - also stock selection can still take
place.
Basically, I grow under my conditions, three blooms per plant,
so after stopping, and when the breaks are at a position to be
selected, I try to use breaks nearer the base of the plant. To
grow on any break below the surface is a bonus, as these usually
produce very good blooms. Some growers deliberately plant the
stock
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deep in the ground to assist this condition. Once the breaks are
selected the timing for the G.S.C. grower is virtually over some
10 to 12 weeks before flowering and now the weather conditions
really control the destiny of the flower.
The plants are tied and staked using the three cane method and
the usual plant protection programme is adhered to - spraying
etc. I dip all my plants, before planting out every year, with
an anti-red spider mixture. This pest has certainly been a problem
in the past two years and as ever, prevention is better than cure.
Once red spider gets a hold, it is very difficult to control,
as the ?? modern sprays available to the general growers today
have little effect on the eggs that are present. Continually spraying
with various products is essential.
Finally, the last operation is to secure the buds. This is done
approximately 28-30 days before the show dates. All stems are
coated with petroleum jelly to prevent earwig damage etc. and
the spraying is stopped before the buds develop, and a powder
is used instead. Caning is required on some varieties but I try
not to use these unless absolutely necessary, such as positioning
the blooms to the top of the stems at an early stage. I have found
that if I apply rose fertilizer around the plants at the end of
July at approximately 2oz. to the square yard it assists the production
of good firm stems and also improves the colour of the bloom.
Covering is left as late as possible, as once they are in position
I do believe the bloom quality and stems begin to deteriorate.
Showing. The blooms for showing are cut the night before staging
and are caned and placed in large containers with holes drilled
around the top edge to secure the blooms. I have given up using
chicken wire in the bottom of the container to hold the stems,
but now use strips of foam around the inside of the container
to keep them secure. I got this idea from watching Don Hill from
High Wycombe when he was transporting his blooms. One thing is
essential when the blooms are placed in the container, I pierce
the stems under the water level with a sharp knife to release
the air in the stems to prevent an airlock. Arriving at the Show
with collapsed blooms is no joke!
Staging at London is now much easier because at one time we had
to stage three blooms per vase, which is not an easy matter with
the size of the modern varieties. If one bloom collapsed just
before judging it was certainly a wild scramble to replace the
offending bloom. Today, the blooms are staged singly and you can
take your time, as do the giant decorative growers, in selecting
the nine blooms required to enter the Vicent Parker Class and
any inferior blooms can be replaced at the last minute. Win or
lose it is a great achievement to get an entry in this class.
I wish you the best of luck.
To review: First select good stock; Secondly, prepare the ground
well; Thirdly, select the varieties to grow; Fourthly, produce
good plants; Fifth, keep to growing without checks at all stages;
Six, start and continue the protection programme and finally,
Try and enjoy it all. Remember it’s a hobby and a flower
we love.